My answer…

Yes, I always follow these steps!  Why? Not only do these steps work, but they work well.

You know,  we should all take time to consider pushing the reset button on how we perceive proper grooming, especially in the shaving category.  The face is the first thing someone sees, and first impressions still reign supreme.  So take a look at my steps and consider following them.  In no time you will see better results both on your face and in your social life!

Remember, the goal is to shave the hair to give a cleaner visual appearance.  Sometimes “baby butt” smooth should be left for babies!

Side Note:  From time to time I personally notice irritation on my neck from shaving multiple times a week.  So there is nothing wrong with shaving your face with a razor and your irritated area with trimmers for a few days.  Or, switch it up all together and  just use trimmers for a couple days to give your face a rest.

Razor burn…

We should all hate it. The redness, burning, itching, over-sensitivity… these are all symptoms. And the worst part is that these symptoms can lead to more visible frustration, razor bumps!

How you get it and its severity depends on many reasons (will discuss below). But the bottom line is, it ranges from person to person and I promise… if you haven’t already experienced it, you don’t ever want to!

Here are a few reasons why:

• Blade/s too sharp
• Blade/s too dull
• Too many blades
• Too many passes/strokes
• Too much pressure
• Shaving too fast
• Shaving too often
• Lack of moisture
• Shaving against the grain (for some)
• Ignoring your sensitive areas and shaving them the same way as you do the rest.

As you can see, the list is long, and honestly could be longer when considering men with unique circumstances (but you can email me for more details if that’s you). Regardless of the reason, the best way to avoid “razor burn” is to…

1. Know your face - Knowing the direction your hair grows is best, especially if going against the grain has ever caused you pain. Also, be aware of the sensitive areas of the skin. This way you can prep those areas heavier or leave for last.
2. Moisture - You can never have too much moisture on your face. The wetter and softer you can get your face, the less effort it is to take the beard off. This equals less strokes, which means less time the blade is on your face. If you want it a bit closer… re-lather!
3. Heal & Moisturize - A splash of cold water (or the “Big Chill“) will bring your skin back in balance by closing the pores. Then, grab your favorite aftershave balm that’s designed to heal and also moisturize the skin.  The healing is especially important because your skin will definitely be going through this process again very soon!

The Morning Shave

Pros.

• The shadow fighter - Some men’s beards can be both darker and tougher, so a morning shave can help to prolong the dreaded  5 o’clock shadow.
• Rise & Shine – we all have our ways of waking up in the morning.  For some, the step-by-step approach to shaving: Prep, Shave & Refresh (see my Quick & Classic Shaving Tips), can help do the trick!

Cons.

• Nicks/Irritation – Getting out of the door in the morning, can at times be a “mad dash”.  So, having this type of a routine in the morning, may do your face more harm than good!

The Evening Shave

Pros.

• Slow -n- Steady – An evening shave can provide more time to getting a closer and “cleaner looking” shave.
• The Healing Effect – While we sleep, our bodies including our skin, regroup and heal.  For this reason, newly shaved skin has the opportunity to “heal itself” before the morning grind.

Cons.

• The tough beard – If your beard is dark and very heavy, another shave may be necessary in the morning.

Now, ideally this step works best after the shower, however if you’re a shave-1st-then-shower kind of guy, the results can be close to the same depending on how long it takes for you to shave.

I call this step the “Big Chill”, and this it how it works!.

(1) Prior to getting into the shower, wet a hand towel under cold water, roll it up and wring it out, so it is moist (not soaked). Then while it’s still rolled, toss it into the freezer just before you jump into the shower.

(2) After the shower, shave (see my Quick & Classic Shaving Tips), then get the towel from the freezer. The towel will be hard and slightly frozen on the outside, so unroll the towel, to expose a moist but very cool center.

(3) Apply that portion of the towel to your freshly shaven face, and hold it for 10+ seconds.

Feel good? Well, it should!

Since an after-shave works best when the pores are completely closed, this step seals the deal at not only doing just that but also cooling the shaved area quicker than a splash of cold water. Your newly cool and dry face will be ready for the application of your favorite after shave.

Give it a try, and let me know how it works for you!

There have been quite a few success story emails after this post was written. Maybe i’ll get a few more!

You know, there really isn’t a definitive answer to this question.  But, I can definitely point out a few advantages and disadvantages for each…

- The Morning Shave

Pros.

• The shadow fighter – Some men’s beards can be both darker and tougher, so a morning shave can help to prolong the dreaded  5 o’clock shadow.
• Rise & Shine – we all have our ways of waking up in the morning.  For some, the step-by-step approach to shaving: Prep, Shave & Refresh (see my Quick & Classic Shaving Tips), can help do the trick!

Cons.

• Nicks/Irritation – Getting out of the door in the morning, can at times be a “mad dash”.  So, having this type of a routine in the morning, may do your face more harm than good!

- The Evening Shave

Pros.

• Slow -n- Steady – An evening shave can provide more time to getting a closer and “cleaner looking” shave.
• The Healing Effect – While we sleep, our bodies including our skin, regroup and heal.  For this reason, newly shaved skin has the opportunity to “heal itself” before the morning grind.

Cons.

• The tough beard – If your beard is dark and very heavy, another shave may be necessary in the morning.

My Quick & Classic Shaving Tips…

Prep: Moisture is Key

1. Make sure that your face is wet and moist to the touch as this opens pores and softens hair in preparation for shaving.
2. Capture that moisture with your favorite pre-shave oil, which also protects the skin from the blade.
3. Follow with a moisture rich shaving cream, preferably a lightly scented brand as heavily scented products can sometimes irritate sensitive skin.

Shave: Keep a Light Hand

1. Note the direction of hair growth in the areas you will shave (cheeks, chin, upper lip, etc.).
2. Your first shave pass should always be short strokes with the grain of the hair growth.
3. For areas that require additional attention, take a second pass across the grain, not against.

Refresh: The Final Touch

1. Follow your shave with a cool splash of water to close pores and cool your face.
2. Apply a lightly scented after-shave. It promotes healing and re-moisturizing of the skin; and again, stay away from heavily scented products that will dry and irritate the skin.

Class dismissed…

Shaving can be tough, and I know this because you tell me!

Here you go…

1. The Badger Brush – it’s great for shaving preparation: exfoliates the skin, creates a great lather that gets deep into the beard, and aids in delivering a close shave.

2. The Blade – ever cut a loaf of bread with the wrong knife? Well, choosing the right blade will determine how your face feels immediately after, and how your face will look in the next day or so. So choose the number of blades wisely!

3. The Balm – some say that a body lotion or a moisturizer is just fine, but I know that as long as shaving has existed, a thin layer of skin is always removed. So with that being said, an aftershave balm that has ingredients designed to HEAL and also moisturize is the key to a complete and enjoyable shave experience!

1. I understand the advantages of a professional shave. Is there a number of times a man should get a pro shave each month among day-to-day shaving?

There really isn’t a recommended number, since so many faces react differently to a very close shave. How I try to guarantee my best work is to suggest a visit to the shop with 2 to 3 days beard growth, which in many cases minimizes any potential irritation.

2. What is the best way to learn how to shave? Have someone teach you?

Have someone teach you will always be the best recommendation. 30 minutes of education from a barber will save you years of shaving frustration.

3. I shave electric and apply aftershave when finished and then shower after depending on if I cut my own hair at that time. Does my shower remove the after shave? And should I reapply the aftershave again when I’m done showering?

Great question! Upon application, the skin will begin to absorb the the healing and moisturizing components of the aftershave.  Unfortunately, showering will remove the remaining portion not yet absorbed.  So it is strongly recommended to reapply after showering.

How does a man determine which shaving tool to use, razor or electric? – Michael F.

The best way to choose the right shaving tool, is to see how your skin reacts to their use. The curlier the beard, the more aware one needs to be with how close the hairs are cut. Ingrown hairs are more common with wet shaving because of how close the hair is cut. In contrast, razor burn is most common with electric shaving due to repeatedly going over the same areas.

Not to worry however, because with correct preparation, potential for ingrown hairs and all signs of irritation can be reduced.  After experimenting with both, the method which yields you the most satisfactory results will be the best choice for you.

Preparation links, click below:

• Wet Shaving Preparation
• Electric Shaving  Preparation

I’ve received several requests and questions regarding how to properly care for shaved heads.  So I thought that I would do a re-post of an earlier post titled – You ask…I answer! This question can also be found from my Q&A page on www.craigthebarber.com.

Q:

What is the best way to shave my head, electric or conventional?  Also, I shave my head every 3 days or so, how do I avoid dry scalp from continuous head shaving? – Edwin in Tampa, FL

A:

Great question, I get asked this one often from my clients.  Unfortunately, there isn’t really a “best” way per se, it is more a question of what is better for you based on closeness and comfort.  So my question to you would be, how close do you like the hair on your head to be?  If you have noticed a great deal of irritation from razor shaving, try my Quick & Classic Shaving Tips.  If you continue to get similar results, then electric would be the better option for you.  Buy a pair of barber quality trimmers (ex. Andis T-Outliner) and give it a try.  You will notice that the trimmers will not get as close as your razor; however, in my opinion comfort trumps closeness every time. In the long run, your scalp will better tolerate having some hair versus the dryness and possible scarring of continual irritation from the conventional method, if it is an issue for you.

When shaving with an electric shaver use a shave solution prior to shaving (try – Electric Shave Solutions by Lab Series or Anthony Logistics) that is designed to lift your hair and protect the skin’s surface. This will help reduce irritation to your scalp.  With wet shaving (razor shaving), use a pre-shave oil that is essentially  designed to do the same as the electric solution.  After shaving, apply a balm that is designed to heal your skin followed by a top quality moisturizer.  Because, whether you are shaving your head with a razor or electric shavers, it is very important to take vital steps to heal and moisturize your scalp.